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1767304139
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Murgab
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Murgab We left Bachor and got back on the Pamir Highway, making our way into the heart of “the roof of the world” as this range, along with some others, is nicknamed. The road climbed onto the Koi-Tezek pass at 4272m, and then spilled onto the Pamir plateau: endless wide valleys surrounded by hills, almost completely barren, with rare patches of green around meandering streams. Driving through this fallow landscape, one could mistake it for our own Negev desert, until a sliver of snow appears on the northern slope of a hill or a Kyrgyz shepherd’s yurt pops up behind a road bend. Our driver stopped on the way at a friend’s house for a cup of “shirchai”, the Pamiri tea prepared with milk and salt, and a plate of delicious yoghurt. In the afternoon we reached Murgab. Murgab is a small town of just a few thousand people, living in very basic mudbrick houses dotted around jaggy unpaved streets — it looks a bit like a refugee camp, and yet it is the capital of the province, ...
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